How to draw doctor who sonic screwdriver

how to draw doctor who sonic screwdriver

11th Doctor's Sonic Screwdriver

Jun 28,  · DRAWING THE 10TH DOCTOR SONIC SCEWDRIVER EXTENDED VERSIONtoday i finally got to upload the 10th doctor sonic screwdriver video, i had already filmed this but. Apr 24,  · HOW TO DRAW A OPEN 11TH DOCTOR SONIC SCREWDRIVER its my second how to draw video!! thanks for the feedback on my tardis one:)* if you want me to draw a close.

I've been too busy this year to come up with a new Halloween costume, so I'm revamping regenerating? In the past, I've used the 11th Doctor's screwdriver gasp! This instructable will be covering the 3D modeling for 3d printing and another bonus step of turning the base from aluminum using the CAD drawing. First, we will create a new document and import an attached canvas using a reference photo.

Once that canvas is placed. We can right click the canvas in the browser and choose "calibrate". Then we will be selecting two points that we know the distance mm from an educated guess. This step scales your canvas up to the correct size, in order to accurately trace it.

Now that the canvas is properly sized. We will create a new sketch on the same plane as the canvas. From there, start tracing out all of the geometry from the center of the canvas. Small details can be replicated by drawing one, then using the rectangular pattern function.

After half of the sonic has been drawn, exit the sketch, then choose revolve with that sketch selected as the profile. This completes part one of the sonic. In order for this to print with the best surface finish, I've decided to break the top part away from the base. This also allows me to attach it to an aluminum base that I'll be creating later.

First, we'll create a new sketch on the top of the base piece. Exit the sketch and extrude that circle down into the base. Then choose "thread" and enter the size thread you want. Now the inner thread is complete, we'll need to start drawing the top threading and start thinking about how we'll attach the rest of the top components.

To get an offset plane directly in the center of the base, we will first create an axis through a cylinder, then once that axis is created, choose plane at an angle. This will give us midplane inside the cylinder. We will create a new sketch on that plane, drawing half of the contour for the threading, along with a half dome.

Exit sketch and revolve how to build a chinese lantern new profile making sure that your operation is set to new body. Then we can select the bottom cylinder of that new body and add a thread to match the inner thread we created earlier. OK, things are about to get a little trickier. But stay with me, How to measure building square footage help you with things that I struggled with at first.

This step is going to involve a lot of offset planes to align our sketches. First we will create a new sketch from that cylinder midplane we created before. Now we will create a new sketch on that plane, draw a 21mm circle with a 2mm offset so the bottom of the circle just barely intersects the threaded dome piece we created earlier. Exit that sketch and extrude it 5mm with a symmetric selected as the direction and join as the operation type.

This new cylinder should now be attached to the threaded dome. We now will create another plane at an angle using the cylinder midplane as our line selection. Enter the sketch and hit "p" to project geometry onto this sketch. Select the threaded dome. This will give us some sketch elements to place the center piece in the middle of the top part. If we hover over the center of the projected sketch near the center, it will snap to the absolute center.

We can draw a line there to find the middle. Then draw some more sketch geometry to form the inside piece. Exit the sketch, and choose revolve once more. This new piece will not be attached to anything yet. To create the three cylinders that attach the middle piece to the top cylinder, start by creating an offset plane from the top of the base model.

Bring it up to just below the surface of that cylinder. Now create a new sketch and draw a circle aligned with the center of the top cylinder. Exit sketch and extrude it to the floating middle piece change distance "to object" in the menu.

All of the top pieces should now be a single body and the base another body and we can add some filets for strength and visual appeal. In order to replicate that extrusion and filets, choose circular pattern and change type to "features". In the timeline below, select the extrusion and filets created and as the axis, select the top cylinder and set the quantity to 3. It is kind of a lot to read and if you want to follow along with something other than text and photos, I've got a video on that modeling process.

Of course, if you don't even want to model what causes spondylosis of the spine, you can download the 3d files on pinshape.

If you want to be extra fancy, you can do what I did and turn the base from aluminum using a drawing from the CAD file we created in the previous steps. Start by laying out some dimensions on the aluminum stock using a sharpie.

Then take your time on the metal lathe getting it as close as your tooling and skill level will allow. Once the shape is how you want it, you'll want to sand and polish it. Start with a low grit to get any deep scratches out.

Slowly work your way up as high as you want to go. I stopped at grit then switched to how to treat low testosterone aluminum polish.

Apply this with a scotchbrite pad, then use a paper towel to buff it out. If you sanded all of the scratches out in the previous steps, this will give you a very high polish. If you didn't turn the base from aluminum and just printed the whole thing, you will want to give this a quick metallic paint job.

While you are at it, throw a little paint on the top piece also to match what the Doctor uses on screen. If you turned the base from aluminum, you'll want to thread the top of the base to match the 3D printed threading.

Reply 3 years ago. Thank you! I did this costume several years ago and used the 11th Doctor's sonic About: I run a youtube channel with the goal of inspiring creativity and how to make a picture cd with background music viewers into making something awesome themselves.

In this instructable will be using Fusion to model the sonic screwdriver. You can see a video of this process along with my final sonic. Let's bring all that together now to finish this sonic screw driver.

Carefully screw the two pieces together and you're done! Participated in the Halloween Contest View Contest. Participated in the Metal Contest View Contest. Did you make this project? Share it how to cook potatoes for stew us!

I Made It! Kid Name Circle Board by julien. PandaTVgaming 3 years ago. Reply Upvote. This is something from another univers, I made this, this is really good. KevinM 3 years ago. Swansong 3 years ago.

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All the best Doctor Who Sonic Screwdriver Drawing 35+ collected on this page. Feel free to explore, study and enjoy paintings with Select the threaded dome. This will give us some sketch elements to place the center piece in the middle of the top part. If we hover over the center of the projected sketch near the center, it will snap to the absolute center. We can draw a line there to find the middle. Then draw some more sketch geometry to form the inside piece. Feb 17,  · You'll need a sonic screwdriver. Character Options has recently released a replica of the Eighth Doctor sonic for a fairly reasonable price. For the Dark Eyes sonic, you'll need to build your own as there are no replicas or models for sale - however, should you be desperate, you could simply use the Character Options 71K.

The first thing that you will need to do is take apart your screwdriver. It is pretty easy, but you have to be careful to avoid snapping any of the molded plastic parts. Twist off the top of the screwdriver like you would to replace the batteries. Use your knife to pry the ring on the top of the handle off of the body of the handle. Then do the same to the hinged piece at the base of the screwdriver that covers the silly red button.

Now time to take apart the top of the screwdriver. I didn't have the fancy triangular bit for the tamper resistant screws that they have, so I used a very tiny allen-key to loosen all of them. Then I took apart the claw assembly, making careful note of where all the parts went and how they interacted so that I could put everything back together. I wanted to brighten up the colors on the sonic a bit before I weathered it so that it would show up a bit more. I decided to use some metallic spraypaints.

I have to say, I really enjoyed working with the plutonium spray pain. It was purchased at an art store for cheap and it dries very quickly and evenly. Before I could paint, however, I needed to cover all of the pieces that I didn't want to get paint on. These were mainly the "ceramic" part of the handle and the emitter tip clear green piece. I used standard masking tape and made sure to get around all of the little curves. The final thing that I did before spraypainting was fill the silly hollows in the claws with epoxy.

I originally simply smoothed it flat with my fingers but later decided to get rid of the fingerprints by sanding it down. Here is where we dive into the problem with the button. I really hated that the main switch didn't work when the screwdriver was open, so this step is what I did to fix it. I personally think that this is the most important part of my instructable and am very confused as to why something similar wasn't put in the original toy design.

First things first. In order for me to be able to flick the screwdriver open the moving piece needed to have a little heft.

I put two pieces of steel rod inside the green internal piece by cutting it open with a hot knife and then closed it back up. Procuring a switch: since the internal circuit has not one but two momentary switches I decided to rip out the bottom one. Essentially, all I am doing is extending the leads from the switch to the internal circuit and mounting the switch to the outside body of the screwdriver so that it functions at all times. The next thing that I did was melt a new hole in the bottom of the curved "leather" part of the handle with heated pliers.

I cleaned up the hole with the small knife and made it exactly the right size for the tiny button on the switch. I then soldered some wire leads to the switch, about six inches long to make sure that there was enough room for me to still access the batteries after the screwdriver was sealed back up. I strengthened and protected the solder joints with epoxy, which also keeps them from shorting each other out and causing the sonic screwdriver to be permanently on. The wire from earbuds works really well because it is very thin and very bendy.

It also has a nice slippery jacket so that it doesn't get caught on anything on the inside of the screwdriver.

Then I mounted the switch to the body of the screwdriver with epoxy. Be careful here, because I accidentally temporarily glued my switch stuck as well. Luckily, the epoxy was still soft enough for me to carve out with my knife but it was a close one! Also, you need to make sure that you leave enough clearance for all the moving parts.

I later chiseled away some of the epoxy that was on top of the switch to make more room. After the switch was mounted to the body I soldered the long lead wires to the internal circuitry. Then did a quick test to make sure everything worked and sealed it all up with heatshrink. The final thing I did with this part of the screwdriver was fill in the holes from the old buttons. Simply put masking tape on the outside of the screwdriver and fill it in from the inside, making sure not to get in any of the important channels or grooves in the plastic.

I wanted to weather my sonic screwdriver to make it a little more unique. I lightly sanded some parts of the screwdriver that would experience more wear and then painted them. I used brown, white, yellow, gold, and silver acrylic paints and painted them on in excess. The I waited a minute or two for the paint to dry in the tiny little scratches that the sanding left and wiped the excess off.

I also used my soldering gun to melt off or texturize small areas of the screwdriver. Looking back, this was a bit overkill but it does make it look like it has been dropped a few times!

This is the setup that keeps the screwdriver closed now that the original catch system is gone. Now that the magnets I had ordered had finally arrived, I was ready to get started. The screwdriver needs magnets mounted on the base of the green piece and a corresponding spot on the inside of the body to keep it closed. What is in the pictures is incorrect. I actually had to rip all of this out later because it was in the way of the sliding piece and didn't hold anything closed in the slightest.

What I actually used was 2 rare-earth magnets on the green piece and 8 rare-earth magnets lined up on the inside of the body. The part that I felt really tied this project together was the leather handle. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures at this stage.

The leather should probably be less than half that thickness to keep the handle anywhere near the actual dimensions. I sanded down the plastic seam so that the leather would not bulk it up even more.

I cut the leather edges at rounded angles so that the leather fit the curve of the handle. I used doubled up any-purpose thread and pushed the needle through the leather with pliers. The leather handle is really nice because it covers up the mess underneath. It also makes it look like their are no buttons anywhere on the handle. I made sure to position the stitching over the button so that I could find the button.

Hopefully you have finished your sonic screwdriver without any issues! I know that I nearly ruined mine several times during the modifications and had to do emergency repairs that luckily worked.

I am very happy with the final result and like the way it works much more than the original toy. I included some slow motion videos in this step. They are a rather low resolution but they showcase the screwdriver in action. I hope you enjoyed my instructable, please vote for me in the Halloween Props Contest!

Not gonna lie, when I saw this I thought you made one. Nonetheless, the paint job was well done, especially compared to the relatively lackluster coloring on the original productl. Reply 4 months ago. Haha, glad it looked good enough to trick you, at least temporarily! This would definitely be a fun one to revisit one day as a build from scratch, especially now that 3d printing is so much more accessible.

If you copy this instructable you shouldn't really need the tab anymore, the magnets will hold it closed! Reply 3 years ago. I haven't handled the 10 Doctor's screwdriver, so I don't know how the toy works. I suppose that you could do something similar. It doesn't look like it has so many moving parts, so it might be a little easier.

If you get around to it I would love to see a photo! I included a picture of my screwdriver. You might be able to reposition the switches for the buttons to be on either end of the slider, but unfortunately I don't know. I think your best bet is to open it up and see how it all works, and if there is enough space on the interior to relocate those switches. The red button IS on the prop, damnit!

Nick Robatto the prop maker showed it in an interview and referenced it. The button is there and, therefore, removing it makes it LESS true to the prop. Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. I am just curious about few things.

Magnets keep sonic closed, but what keeps it flicked open? Could you please advise me how to get to the wires in the green part to solder them to the external button? You probably do not have pictures of actual magnets position, right?

Could you maybe describe it more closely if it's not a problem? The magnets keep the sonic closed, friction keeps it open. Even though the magnets are high strength neodymium they are not strong enough to close the screwdriver from such a distance.

If you take a look at Step 4 Now For the Actual Modifications you can see where I accessed the wires from the original circuit and added extensions. As for the magnets, I describe how I changed the setup in Step 6. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the final setup. The magnets are in very similar positions to the pictures in step six, just the magnets inside the body have an adjusted position so that when the screwdriver is closed the magnets inside the body and mounted on the claw are nearly touching.

It all seems clearer now. I successfully ripped the button, pulled the wires and made a hole into the handle. Now I will have to buy magnets.

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